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Shampoo Design Considerations
Cleaning the hair is the primary purpose of any shampoo product. This routine practical function is what separates shampoos from the host of products, which are designed to style the hair or perform some other function. Building foam is what the industry thinks is important to the consumer, who without detail information about the workings of a surfactant assumes that the more foam that is created the better the shampoo is working. Working the lather into the hair is also a marketing tool for the shampoos. Most of the surfactants used for human hair are slightly acidic. Some surfactants with caustic properties can be used like various chlorine salts. These alkaline surfactants are typically more irritating to the scalp over prolonged periods than their slightly acidic counterparts. Solubility of the surfactant is sometimes an issue when the appearance of the shampoo is taken into account. If a clear shampoo is desired then choosing a surfactant or blend of surfactants with high solubility in water is essential.
Thickness of the shampoo solution is an important consumer design feature. Shampoo is expected to behave in a certain manner when poured out of the bottle. Viscosity greater than water makes it easier to pour the correct amount of shampoo. It also helps it to stay in your hair when it is being used.
If the product is made in a hard water area there are some big problems that can occur if the water is not pretreated to remove calcium and magnesium salts. This can lead to haziness or precipitation in the product. Sequesterants are used and the product remains clear and looks more aesthetically pleasing.
Since consumers want to keep their shampoos for years they expect it to have a long shelf life and it does get warm in those bathrooms, so preservatives are added. The two common additives are methyl paraben and propyl paraben. Other ingredients can be added as well, medications, botanicals, vitamins, and perfumes are all examples of some of these additions.
Chemistry of Shampoo
Shampoos are combinations of many chemicals and water.
Cleaning Agents:
The prime ingredients in all shampoos are substances called surfactants. Responsible for cleaning action and lathering properties, largely determines the hair's condition after shampooing.
Modifying Agents:
These are thickeners, preservatives, emulsifiers, color additives and foam boosters. Some shampoos include panthenol, which can diffuse into the hair shaft and bind to proteins, strengthening their structure. Humectants, which help to retain moisture are also added. Other additives are added to maintain clarity in a shampoo.
PH Adjuster:
Used to control flyaway hair caused by rough hairs rubbing against each other and producing an electrical charge. PH adjusters such as citric acid are used to provide a smoothing effect.
Fragrance
Fragrance oils are added so that the hair is left smelling fresh, which attracts consumers.
Introduction to Surfactants For Shampoo
The major types of surfactants are anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric. Ions are molecules that have small electrical charges that may be positive or negative. Opposite charges attract and similar charges repel. Surfactants with a negative charge are called anionic. A surfactant with a positive charge is cationic.
Surfactants will influence six essential attributes of shampoo: cleansing, foam, condition, viscosity and aesthetic appeal combined with safety and mildness of use. Most shampoos are synthetic surfactants and acts by surrounding tiny oil and dirt globes in an aggregate called micelle. These are spherical groupings of 40 to 100 molecules in which all hydrophobic ends pint toward the center and all hydrophilic ends stick out in the surrounding water.
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These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. |
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